Dragon fruit stem cell active Ignilyte takes gold at in-cosmetics Asia 2026

Vytrus Biotech, the Spanish personal care raw material supplier, has won the gold award for best active ingredient at in-cosmetics Asia 2026 in Bangkok for Ignilyte, a 100% natural active derived from dragon fruit stem cells that the company says reawakens the skin's bioelectrical power to drive deep regeneration and vitality.

The silver prize in the actives category went to DSM-Firmenich for Glycare SK, which translates human milk oligosaccharides into skin care through precision bio-fermentation. The resulting bioidentical ingredient targets sensitive, stressed skin, helping it recover and rebuild resilience. Givaudan took bronze with PrimalHyal NeuroYouth, a complex that pairs low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with selected amino acids to activate what the supplier describes as neuro-rejuvenation — renewing vitality and restoring the skin's sense of touch.

For formulators and brand development teams, this year's actives podium sketches three distinct product-development directions: biotech-derived naturals with mechanism stories rooted in skin physiology, bioidentical fermentation routes borrowed from other biology categories, and neurocosmetic combinations built on established hyaluronic acid chemistry.

What won in functional ingredients?

The functional ingredients category placed sustainability and sensory performance side by side. Evonik won gold for TEGO Filmstar BST1, a biodegradable film former that improves SPF performance by promoting a more homogeneous distribution of UV filters on the skin — a claim that speaks directly to sunscreen formulators facing pressure on both efficacy validation and environmental profiles.

Dow received silver for Dowsil EL-9400 Hybrid Elastomer Blend, an elastomer gel that combines a silicone elastomer network with a biodegradable carrier. The pitch preserves silicone's silky feel while adding versatile rheology across multiple textures — a procurement-relevant option as brands weigh silicone alternatives against regulatory scrutiny of certain carriers.

Gattefossé took bronze for Protecticire MB, a fully natural active texturising ingredient built with the supplier's proprietary wax butter technology. It creates a soft, imperceptible shield on every hair fibre, positioning it squarely in the hair care repair and protection segment.

New for 2026: fragrance and formulation awards

The 2026 edition introduced the Fragrance Awards, which recognised scent launches featured in the new Fragrance Zone's Scent Bar. Only Fragrances won for Scent of You, a floral, musky and creamy composition blending powdery orris and soft skin accords with a heart of vanilla cream, violet and Cashmeran, rounded off with a base of musk, sandalwood and tonka bean.

The Spotlight On Formulation Awards, which recognise finished formulations that demonstrate what innovative ingredients and technologies can achieve, delivered a third gold for a major supplier. BASF won for its SPF 50 / PA++++ Moisture Touch Tone-up Sun Lotion, a photostable O/W lotion that is free of both octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate — notable given the shifting regulatory status of several traditional UV filters — while combining high protection with a light sensory profile.

DSM-Firmenich collected its second podium of the night with silver for SURPR-Ice BALM: Arctic Multisensory Heat Rescue, a rich balm that transforms into a lightweight serum and delivers immediate cooling relief. Bloomage took bronze for Hymagic-SAHA, which combines salicylic acid with hyaluronic acid to minimise pores, refine skin and reduce irritation.

Nine faces of APAC beauty

The ceremony also recognised the 9 Faces of the APAC Beauty Industry 2026, co-created with Personal Care Magazine. The honourees are Vismay Sharma of L'Oréal, Maria Nohemi Galindo of P&G, Supriya Punyani of Unilever, Weixuan Chan of Kenvue, Xin Sun of Bloomage Biotechnology, Yuvapong Suthinand of Dr.PONG Skin Research Lab, Dr Yong-Ji Chung of Caregen, Dr Jun Tao Xia of BASF and Hyunjong Wi of SKINIDEA.

Sarah Gibson, event director of in-cosmetics Asia, said: "The quality and variety of this year's entries have been fantastic. From breakthrough ingredient technologies to exciting new fragrance creations, the 2026 Awards celebrate the science, creativity and collaboration moving our industry forward."

She added: "By bringing the industry together, in-cosmetics Asia gives these great ideas and innovations a platform to help shape the future of beauty."

What does this change for buyers and formulators? Watch for Ignilyte, Glycare SK and TEGO Filmstar BST1 to appear in supplier sampling programmes across APAC in the coming quarters, with dossiers and formulation guidelines expected as the winners convert trade-show momentum into commercial launches.